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A couple Southern Ptarmigan Peaks –or –
“Dome Doom and the Sinister Minister”
Dome Peak (8920', p3040')
Sinister Peak (8440', p840')
via
Downey & Bachelor Creeks
July 21-24, 2011
Carla Schauble and Franklin Bradshaw
Title idea from Niko and great music from Bela Fleck & the Flecktones
Weather –rain to Downey CG. Approach to Itswoot Ridge High Camp, low clouds & wet brush 50’sF. Summit day
–32F morning, hot and sunny with faint breeze. Sunday, deproach, 52F morning, 84F at Downey CG)
…sitting at the pass, Goretex boots long since soaking wet, legs cold from water
brushed of the overgrown trails. We’d found an island of
dirt to sit on for lunch. No views, socked in with clouds in the sky and our
minds. Dicey seemed
demoralized thinking of our attempt last week with a cold turn-around in a
cloud. Would a “Honey Badger doesn’t give a sh…” line help cheer? Maybe not. This time
we’d come 19.2 miles and close to 5000’ gain. Wet cold and feeling the long
day, I believed the weather forecast would be correct. Having my faith in a
better day to come, I wondered if my hike partner was feeling an optimism of
better weather to come? As we sat there,
thinking. Maybe the other group had made
a good choice to turn-around…
I didn’t even know of a plan “D”
During the winter I’d been trying to talk someone to
ski into the Ptarmigan. Things just
didn’t pan out. Maybe they were smart
enough to know the joys of the approach from the south. Sometimes ideas don’t
align. Last week we tried for a ski into
the Ptarmigan via Cascade Pass. Red
flags popping up we bailed for a trip with sun and views. It’s not a going for peaks, it’s seeing the
area and enjoying the scenery and mountains.
So when it comes to whiteouts and rain I save the trip for another
day.
This weekend I was surprised with an enthusiastic
call for Dome and Sinister. The past week or so a deluge of trips successful to both. Tim’s group and Beth’s
both from Stehekin, Jon and Eric from Cascade Pass and a week before that
Jason. No having to convince the routes were in. Years of
horror stories of Bachelor creek and many put off by an 8.5 mile road walk to
get just to the trailhead (Downey Creek).
Never heard about the Bachelor Creek trail? Tales of
trail covering brush and seemingly miles of slide alder to battle. I’d thought that early season catch it snow
covered. Well, a little late from that,
or was it?
We gathered beta from the usuals
that have been in that area (Tom, Brett) and older trip reports from Eric Base
Camp, Paul…) Some nice upper area route images from Brett and Steph. Tom had a route to “avoid 90%” of the alder
hell. Many helpful hints on the summit
block too. A great bonus was the use of
a bike trailer –hoping to make the trip to Downey Creek CG more a joy. I’d made recon trips up the Suiattle in the
winter so felt bikes were the cat’s meow.
Oh, the weather…
Yeah, a tough one this year. It was changing each forecast. The same basic pattern, just when the window
was the thing they couldn’t nail down.
First rain was supposed to stop before we rode in and the next day dry
with partial clouds, then the weekend warming and on 8% potential cloud cover,
then late Sunday clouds to rain by late evening and a wet Monday or something
like that. We had a small window for the
size of this trip, enough to give it a go.
The wheels on the bike go round and round
Traffic out of town was a real doozy. Besides being late off work the traffic
slowdown got us to the trailhead later than hoped. One other vehicle at the
gate and it was still warm. Maybe we’d
have company? Loaded and riding by 8:20
at the gated road (mp12+). It was
obvious we’d be in the dark by the time we made the 8.5 mile ride to Downey
Creek Camp Ground. The rain and drizzle
had stopped, then half way in started again.
I almost forgot going up rive meant uphill. Wet from a rain we passed four FS trucks and
a private car parked before Downey Creek. Over the bridge and pulled into the
dark empty Downey Creek CG at 9:50. Only
thing moving besides the rain drops was the mouse in the outhouse.
Day 0, 8.5m, 1h30min.
We
walked up clouds lifting as we rose
Wet and the mysteries of the
trail tale
Morning the sound of rain had ceased. Loaded, bikes locked and on the trail by
6:50. The sign in sheet showed a party
of two had gone in to “climb” from Itswoot Ridge yesterday. Wonder how far they made it yesterday? As we gained elevation up the first steeper
part of the trail and cruising along the more level old growth park like setting, my thoughts changed. More of I was getting wet fast.
Wet
foliage and mr. smiley
Those plants you don’t notice rubbing in the dry
were each covered in large droplets of water.
The soft shell water resist pants took on the physics of a sponge. Tactics of a trekking pole to knock off the
water was only a psychological boost.
The trail started around 1450’ and within a third a mile gained
400’.
From here in it was a slight up and down, roar of
the creek below, low
clouds, deep wet greens, lush mosses, bright new ferns and
impressively majestic old growth trees.
The first 2.5 miles of trail are in great condition
with fresh WTA work. A little brushing
is in order though.
Like a
land of magic
After a camp area at 2.9 miles we found apt names
for the next two. At 3.6 miles a tent
site next to the trail with a large pike in a stump –Camp Spike. In another .3 miles a black boot next to
another tent site. That’s right you guessed
it, Camp Boot.
Camp
Boot is here
Two log crossings.
One slippery as snot on glass. Lower water would be good rock hopping, but I
didn’t want to get wet. I know, laugh… I
was soaking wet from the brush already.
Another chunk of giant log fallen into the creek at a spot WTA had
cleared the trail made a good crossing.
Another
log crossing about 1.7 miles in (new from the WTA work)
Downey
Creek about 2 miles in
After that the trail became more overgrown and muddy
in spots. An open area entailed
spreading the over head high brush aside to look for
the tread.
A few
spots have overgrown
The
third large creek crossing (on a great flattened log)
Beautiful Puncheons over many spots a mixed
blessing. Before I knew It I was almost on my
butt. Standard of the
day… slippery as snot. 27
puncheons a large flattened log creek crossing and we could hear another a loud creek ahead.
I’d been nervous about this.
Reports talked about a rotting cracked death log. Would we be able to cross Bachelor creek
easily?
Around the corner a raging creek… and, and , wheh! Logs. A large top flattened one to cross and a much
smaller rotted when upstream that I’m glad we didn’t have to use for the
crossing. Across the creek several nice flat tentsites,
one with a rectangular dry spot. This
must be Six Mile Shelter (6.2m, c2513, 10:00p).
Bachelor
creek in its lower tame mode and the old ratty log crossing
The new
Bachelor Creek log cross
Time to head up
A food break and we started up the great tread along
the creek. First
steep, raging Bachelor creek a few feet away. Shortly the pitch mellowed. I was pleasantly surprised how good the tread
was. Then the brush covered the trail, Blueberry bushes
everywhere, then logs, the trial gone in
brush then more logs, then great tread again.
I grew to enjoy each section that was clear and easy to follow. And a wonderful stretch
with thousands of ferns.
Another
field of ferns
Newly budding and is this budding too?
Bachelor
Creek trail in an opening
I love
the sharp patterns and the shades
Some of the logs were huge and a pain to get
over. Most had well
worn walk-arounds. Then the brush got thick. Enough that someone had
flagged the trail.
Sometimes
a log walk was the best way around
You could find the tread by moving the overgrown
brush aside. If the trail was lost it
was a matter of backing up stopping and looking for it. Seemed more looking for the trail then the scenery
around. Important to not fall in the
mud, a creek or…
the
slide alder.
Yes,
this IS the trail before the real think slide alder
Not as bad as I’d heard –yet. It covered the trail,
okay as long as you didn’t have skis or an axe sticking up of pad sticking
out. In 2.4 mile,
c4000 we met up with the group of two heading down trail (R & D). They’d hiked in the dark up Downey Creek
trail in the rain arriving at Six Mile Shelter around 11pm. Soaking wet from the morning brush fest,
looking like someone had turned a fire hose on him, it had taken a look at the
wet log cross to add the extra burden of just not being into it today. After last week getting ready to cross to
Cache Col we could fully empathize. In
the open it was low clouds, everything wet and a basically dark cool day. Was this summer? Another .1 mile and we were looking at the
log across to ultra thick slide alder.
Wet log cross. Slopes up more than it looks in
the photo
The log wasn’t impossible, just not inviting. A path lead the opposite way (north). (8.7m , 2.6m from Six Mile Shelter, c4080’, 12:20p).
Eanie, Meanie, Minie, Mo
Tom had mentioned a route north to woods and keep heading up stream.
Which route would be best. Would a north route really go? Carla was all for crossing the log. I paused a moment since I know log crossings
are not her favorite acrobatic act. I
liked the idea of the woods. We took the
north trail others had started. After
less than 100’ of alder it opened. A
patch of large trees above, we followed the open area parallel to them
(right). In another
100 feet up into the next narrow patch of large trees. North side of this clump it opened and we
kept heading up valley into the main woods.
A sigh looking at the wide open easy walking in the
woods. Up a
slight ridge with little creeks coming down from the left (north) and the noise
of Bachelor creek a hundred feet to our right (and down the ridge). I rather enjoyed the walk since now no wet
brush swatting against me. It looked
like deer and other animals also used this as a route. c4500’ the pitch flattened and we were on
snow. A half mile from the log the creek
began to level near our elevation and another .1 miles the creek was a wide
flat meadow look. With all the snow, not
sure how it’d look, but my mind could see happy deer, heather, flowers… nice to
have a sunny imagination on a dark cloudy day.
Through the trees at this flat
creek area before us a grand-daddy of logs for crossing. Old growth lying from bank to bank and with
bark! I nearly jumped for joy. Creek
crossing can be the cruxes of a trip for me.
(9.3m, c4525’,
6h20m, 1:10p).
Higher
up c4525’ a much better log to use to cross
Oh, we crossed to the south side here. Obvious to
our right (west) was the snow buried location of the camp above the slide alder
field. Through the trees we could see
that avy snow was still partially covering much of the slide alder. Thanks Tom, we’d bypassed more like 98% of
the Slide Alder Bachelor Brush Bash Fest.
I’m sure if I thought on it I’d come up with a good acronym for it. Most the Alder we hit was the last 200’ or so
before you’d cross the lower log anyway.
A few hint of trail, a cut log, a bit of bare tread,
animal tracks, bear scat, a faded flagging and a reminder from Tom’s not the
trail was within 100’ of the creek. We
stayed no further than 100’ from the meandering creek. Tried bypassing a swampy area and punched
through in a covered boulder field.
Ouch, this would get me the rest of the day. I seemed to have tweaked a tendon in the
lower leg. Hours later It still had me thinking I may have to pull the plug and
head back. It would be a heck of a long way out.
It just keeps coming
Our relief of surviving the lower Bachelor Creek
trail and joy of bypassing the slide alder was short lived as we looked up to
see the mother of avy swaths and the steep hill to the ridge above. Heading advice we hung climbers
right into the woods. No snow and
occasionally the tread of the long abandoned trail between piles of logs. Further right was better, though c4900’
(10.1m, 1:52p) we left the woods heading direct for the steep hill.
Heading
up the Avy swath –easier than we’d expected
Up near the top of the ridge a few small buttresses
to aim between. The ascent went easy with
open dirt, rock and minor trees to walk over and around. It looked like a faint zig
zag of animal paths, though steep. Much better than following
the trail further north on the shallower pitch.
650’ up we topped out onto
snow on a flatter ridge with minor basin heading up to the south (c5550’,
10.3m, 2:35p). Pretty obvious the way to
go and the small hill to Cub Lake Pass had a set of faintly visible ski
tracks. Or maybe I was hallucinating in
the wetness. .4 miles from gaining the
ridge we were at Cub Lake Pass. Wet, leg
hurting, hungry and wondering about our sanity (10.7m, c5878, 4765’ ascent for
the day). The hope had
been quick travel and maybe make Dana-Dome Col. More likely Itswoot Ridge, but the Col would
allow for issues on summit day.
To pass or not to…
…sitting at the pass, Goretex boots long since soaking wet, legs cold from water
brushed of the overgrown trails. We’d found an island of
dirt to sit on for lunch. No views, socked in with clouds in the sky and our
minds. Dicey seemed
demoralized thinking of our attempt last week with a cold turn-around in a
cloud. Would a “Honey Badger doesn’t give a sh…” line help cheer? Maybe not. This time
we’d come 19.2 miles and close to 5000’ gain. Wet cold and feeling the long
day, I believed the weather forecast would be correct. Having my faith in a
better day to come, I wondered if my hike partner was feeling an optimism of
better weather to come? As we sat there,
thinking. Maybe the other group had made
a good choice to turn-around…
View
south to Cub Lake from the Saddle
Now a focused goal of Itswoot
Ridge and tomorrow bringing better weather. I stashed the climbing pro to lighten the
load. Faint hopes of a Gunsight climb
dashed. We’d save that for another
trip. Re-energized and cold from the
break we headed down the snow to Cub Lake.
Nasty tree wells and steep hill direct below moved us left to the better
open slope.
Cub
Lake
The view ahead changed rapidly with the rise and
fall of the low clouds. Cub Lake below
snow covered and blue around the edges.
600’ down, we traversed on its left side having missed a small patch of
trail tread 40+ feet above the lake (11m, c5275, 4:06p).
Traversing the east side of Cub Lake
Past the lake the basin was an ocean of avy flow ridges, sun cups
and chunks of tree and dirt swept off the mountain. We got a view of the ridge and a route left
then right to avoid the wet granite slabs.
More boot/kick stepping and we gained the ridge (11.8m, c6168’, 5:14p).
Itswoot
Ridge
Still no views and nowhere to
camp. Heading east a point of rock, then further up before a sharp rise a
bare spot. Once at that spot we
found a flattened tentsite on dirt. When the weather breaks this could offer a grand view.
Walking
up the ridge, Cub Lake far below in the middle
No doubt this was as far as we’d go today (12m,
c6326, 10h45m, 5:30p, 5816’ ascent). It’d take at least two hours to the next spot
(Dana-Dome Col) and it was buried in the clouds.
Home sweet home
Minimal wind and semi dry ground. This felt like a luxury. At the saddle a dripping snow pile provided
fresh water.
Fresh
running water
I’d printed a
pic showing the route with sun, that Carla used to imagine a nice warm hike to
Dome versus the gloom we were experiencing now.
I think
we go somewhere up there…
Dinner made and eaten we didn’t dally long before
seeking the warmth of our bags. Still
hoping for views I kept hanging my head out the tent. Clouds would move a moment with a slight hint
of tomorrow’s route and some setting sun in the direction for Dome.
Dome Peak peeks out
The sun glowing the clouds before
dropping behind a ridge gave me hope the morning would bring clear
skies.
Sun setting, I zipped up the tent closed my eyes to
meditate on the day. If our plans panned
out, it would be hard earned reward.
Dome cometh
Was it me or was it cold? I had my summer bag and maybe I should have
worn my puffy rather than use it as a pillow.
I pulled my head from the bag to see frost and ice on the tent. The watch showed it was below freezing in the
tent. Brrrr! Eyes blurry looking up
before me a grand view looking to “Yes! Peak” and
pre-dawn clear skies. Sweet!
Click and drag to interactive pan. Shift and Ctrl key to zoom in and out
Frozen boots on feet, water, food and gear in pack,
we were heading up the last bit of ridge to the ridge buttress by 6:20a. Hard snow ankle busting traverse across and
down under a buttress at c6170’, .3m.
And uphill after the second buttress at c6242, .9m,
40min). The ascent up the west side
slope was shaded. Scratching up the slope got steep in a few places then
flattened around 7400’.
Snow was
hitting the snow far south on the steep Dome slope and a reflected glow lit the
area. An amazing
effect. A large low gap in the peaky ridge brought the first sun in days
(Dana-Dome Col, 1.5m, c7500, 1h30m).
Good time for a break in the sun.
Dana-Dome
Col
Looking
north into the Ptarmigan Traverse -Eldorado left of center
Eldorado
Glacier
Peak (aka Yes! Peak)
Then south on a direct slight
rise towards Dome Peak onto the immense flat upper Dome Glacier (c8000’). Important trick here was
heading to the steep slope on the north of Dome and left to the col at c8600’,
(2.5m, 2h45m).
Leaving
the col
The
route across the upper Dome Glacier
Cracks
in the upper glacier
Click and drag to interactive pan. Shift and Ctrl key to zoom in and out
Barely
a mark
Dome
Col ahead left
From the col great sunny views east and west. The
southern Ptarmigan Traverse, close by Sinister, Gunsight, Agnes and the west
side Glacier Peak… and a “canon hole” in the west running ridge of Dome.
Canon
hole in the shade
Baker
and Shuksan in the distance
Looking
back our route on the left, Dome col on right
Heading
up from Dome Col
Up
looked like a… well, a dome
Last
stretch to the final ridge
Above us southward the hill looked like, well, like
a big dome. Up to a
ridge drawing us rightward to a narrowing ridge.
Looking back east on the summit ridge. Agnes, Gunsight and Sinister on the right
At a point where the ridge steepened with a
precipitate drop north and a steep slope with drop south we set a belay from a
boulder. Probably could have just walked
across, but the penalty for a slip was too high. The snow was rock hard on one side and
starting to soften on the sun side. Set a picket midway and slug a boulder at
the change from snow to rock within 20-30’ of the true summit.
Yikes
look at the view down –Oops, better yet, don’t look!
View
from the ridge traverse north over Dome Glacier and our route up
From here old footsteps went down the snow to a
book/crack. At eye level the rock ridge
looked spicy. Once on the ridge it was
much better than it looked. Just a mind game with the drop north. Across I tied the rope off to a sling on the
summit and Carla made her way across (2.6m, 8920’, 9:45a, 2755ascent).
Smiling
on top
But
this was the look crossing (just kidding:)
The
traditional arm length summit group shot
South
summit
Dome
Reg
And the rewards… oh, yeah… Awesome! Warm rock, low wind, and
views. Did I mention the great
views? When you go
make sure it good skies. I feel
sorry for those that summited in rain and clouds to no views. We hung around a long time on the summit,
drying socks, footbeds and boots in the sun while
reading through the register. So many
familiar names and so many people I’d shared a trip here and there with. It stuck out many Bulger list peak seekers
signing off as one of their final summits.
Click and drag to interactive pan. Shift and
Ctrl key to zoom in and out
Into the oven, Sinister bound
We’d left our packs 50m away at the other end of the
rope and I was getting hungry. An hour
and fifteen on the summit (11:02a), now time to head to our next goal
–Sinister. Across the rock ridge was a
walk in the park compared to the first crossing. And the snow had softened for a much more
secure walk across the knifey ridge back to the
packs. Pack up gear, eat, drink and
heading down in the softening snow to Dome Col.
Happy, Happy…
Oh, my…
View
back to Dome Col and the Summit ridge
A good view from a rock outcrop
to Sinister. And a major
drop off at the col (11:12a). Far left
and north faint tracks showed a route around a massive open gap. The steep soft snow was easy walking, but one
slip would send you into open crevasses below.
We tried small steps to set an up route.
It was getting hot and I hoped we wouldn’t be trying to post hole up
deep glop.
It was
a bigger crevasse than it looks
Gunsight
looking inviting
Closer
up of Gunsight
Dome col is at 8600’ and Sinister
col at 7600’. So just a 1000’ drop…
Wrong! We wound around avoiding crevasses and covered dips cut higher on a
steep traverse dropping to 7200’ (4m, 12:10p).
Ugh, not the funniest thought of a hot sun trudge up an extra 800’
today. One step at a time we crossed the
Chickamin Glacier toward the north face of
Sinister. It looked steep, more than I
felt like doing when an easier route was available closer. Closely above a crevasse on a steep hill side
traverse veering left to Sinister Col (4.4m, c7590’, 12:45p).
Arrived…
Sinister Col
Ah, a sigh,
next objective… Where is the dirty gulley Beth used last week? It looked like one could just scramble up the
ridge. Must be a reason why people don’t
mention it so we went CCW heading SE.
The short ridge started to grow.
Brown dirt and black rock changing to gray steep walls. A small break with snow to the ridge we
bypassed. Then a faint trace of old
footprints –seven tracks, could be four people up and back. The wall on our left grew taller and more
browns to the color. A
large snow/wind dip and at a book in the wall a less than 100’ tall gulley. Snow most of the way with a chockstone.
The
Dirty Gulley –yuck…
The snow hadn’t seen much sun yet and was still
hard. Just added spice to the meal. Above the moat we made a precarious exit left
into the dirty part of the gulley. The rock
was crap, hold fall off and not putting me in a happy place. Best bet is one person at a time. Atop the gulley an extended rap station with
rap rings. After coming up that gulley,
no way was I going to waste a good rope in it.
And the risk of pulling the crap down. There must be another rap down.
Ridge Running, well scrambling. Dome
in backdrop
The ridge on the right heading up was mostly melted
out. I welcomed dry rock scrambling a
change from the steep snow. A hundred
feet or so below and SW of the summit we transferred to low angle flattening
snow, reaching rocks again at the summit (4.7m, 8440’, 2:35p, 8h15m,
3996vert). In a gap between rocks on a
high point 70’ south of the highest point I found an old rusty can. I’ve found
many like it with registers in them, not this time.
Not a
reg…
The highest point is a boulder jutting up on the NE
end of the rolling top. Carla happily
touched the peak and now time for summit treats. I stood on the top, but by the time of a
picture decided better to just sit.
East ridge of Sinister
Sinister
summit looking NE
In a small cairn next to the boulder an aluminum
tube with a Fay register from 2006.
Sinister was her 99th Top 100 peak. Last year Signe brought down damaged pages
from the register to send to the archive.
I had re-printed images of them and added them into the tube. Only a partial set of the old pages. Wish I had seen more of the older pages. Reading the new register, it looked like this
year Sinister and Dome were already very popular compared to past years with
four parties registering already (and another summit porn playing card).
Tag,
you’re it
Arms
reach summit shot
Our route from Dome
Out of the slight wind we relaxed after much shutter
delay. This was a great day for
images. Too bad I forgot to charge the
battery or bring a spare. Gunsight was
so close and inviting. Bummer we didn’t
have another day or leaving to the east.
Click and drag to interactive pan. Shift and Ctrl key to zoom in and out
Martin,
Dark and Bonanza
Looks
mellow
But it was steep!
There comes a time to go
By the time we headed back the way we’d come the
snow was much softer sinking sometimes past the knees (2:50p). Picked up the stashed rope as we passed the
dirty gulley heading west (2:59). The
ridge widened, low angle and a rich brown in color. So different from the white
snow below. I wandered around
looking over the edge and seeing if we could find another rap station. We were sure going down the gulley was not
“standard”.
Another
route detail image
Looking
for the rap station
The wide spot narrowed and at a pinch on my left I
found the rap station with a copious amount of tat. Looked like a 50 – 60m rope would get down
(5m, c7824, 3:10p). Why rap if you don’t
have to? We continued west on the ridge
as it narrowed. Watch what you step on,
there are many loose rocks/boulders. One
spot brought pause so we protected around and down a boulder.
Passing
the rap station (above her head) to head off the west ridge instead
From here I walked down an one to two foot find hall
type gap with 6’ of cl3 to step onto the snow at the point we’d seen earlier
where the snow lead up gray rock to the ridge (c7760’). A nice alternative to the
Dirty Gulley.
Where we walked off the ridge. Dirty Gulley a few hundred feet east.
From the Sinister Col (5.2m) we retraced our tracks
in sloppy warming snow over and around crevasses (roped up again). A half hour from the col we had descended to
the low point and started up the looonnngggg trudge
(5.6m, c7200’, 4:00p).
Lowest
point we crossed the Chickamin Glacier
Up, up,
up, in the hot sun and no wind
It was hot, the snow soft and the hill steep. Couldn’t use the down track, but it allowed me to go to occasional
zombie mode working up the glacier.
I think I was more entertained due to the views, textures and impressive
crevasses we passed. Time flew by as
much as sweat dripped off my brow. An
hour and twenty plus minutes we sat on the rocks at Dome Col to remove
crampons, eat skittles and enjoy the cool breeze and sun (6.4m, 11h5m, 5:25p,
5350ascent).
Bye
Sinister
Almost
at the Dome Col
Dome
Col and summit ridge
It was 2h35m from Sinister, how long to cross back
to camp? What would the snow be
like? Would I have energy for the last
up? Looked late in the day so no chance
of moving camp for a shorter day tomorrow.
In my mind I ran the math of distances, vert,
time… I kept it to myself. The miles needed tomorrow after two big days
seemed daunting to my weary legs.
Looks
like glissade tracks off the summit ridge –kinda’
Left Dome Col at 5:40 seeing
three skiers crossing the flat Dome Glacier. Once at the snow I looked again. I must be seeing things, because it was only
two skiers. A quick glissade and we met
Andy and John from Wenatchee on day two of their Ptarmigan Traverse. They went the sane
way (north to south) and were heading up to tag Dome Peak before heading out
our way.
Visitors?
Andy
and Tom making good time up the Dome Gl
The
broad flat upper Dome Glacier
The walk was lighter, even after the long day with
the rewards seen and being on the two peaks.
Mind just reveling and a much easier trek back to a warm dry camp. Near Dana-Dome Col we say a third skier
waiting in the rocks.
Hey, I
want to go there, yeah, right there
Our route with some sun on it
We followed our route back (tracks gone or never
existed) with a couple long fast glissades, traversing under a buttress then
following goat track north. I’m amazed
how the animals now exactly where the trail is even when under feet of
snow. The hot sun had melted out more
heather patches. Our walk back now
presented us Marmots and a few short pieces of real trail tread to relieve from
the soft snow sidehilling. After the
last buttress it was a slow 120’ up to the ridge, then down to camp (8.7m,
7:20p, 13hrs, 5471ascent).
Shadows
starting to grow
Camp
ahead!
The
last downhill to Itswoot Ridge camp
Party on, dude
The snow around camp was trodden with hoof prints
everywhere. I could imagine hundreds of
goats hanging around like a beer party.
Amazing enough no gear was upset.
Pot still on stove, everything as we left it, except hoof prints every
inch around. I felt like I showed up late to find we weren’t invited to a
party. After collecting more water and
changing to dry socks we watched as goats came from higher up the north slope to the buttress on the ridge above us. Four, then it was six, then skiers coming up
from the south.
The goats waiting above the skiers
Then nine goats atop the
buttress looking down at the skiers looking up at them. It was a standoff. What now?
The stories of goat goring in the back of my mind. Armed with cameras the skiers had the upper
hand and one of the groups would have to blink.
It was the goats that backed down, trotting back the way they’d come.
Retreat!
The skiers swung by for a brief chat then skied down
to Cub Lake Basin as the sunlight changed from bright to red-oranges. What a difference from last night. Now we sat and enjoyed the views and setting
sun. Also a light feeling that we’d had
a great trek and now to just head out. A
long day, capped with a mellow sunset. I was smiling as I closed my eyes and
soon asleep.
Shadows
growing on Dome
Last
light on Itswoot Ridge
Jellyfish
clouds
“Hey, hey, do you hear that”? “huh”? “I think I
hear goats”. I sat up and stuck my head
out the tent. Yep,
totally surrounded by a herd of goats.
Not thinking I started at the top of my lungs to bark like a dog. Then my sides started hurting I was laughing
so hard. OMG. Have you ever been in a damp east coast
building and lifts a piece of plywood off the floor. Cockroaches taking off in
every direction. It was just like
that. Then they came back and totally
ignored us. After that it took a while to
get back to sleep.
A long way home
The eve was warm, even in a summer bag. I glanced a few
stars, but spent the eve sleeping well after the stellar day. Something about sleeping
high on a ridge. Up and about in the
early dawn to watch the rich morning sky change color and hope for alpine glow
on the surrounding peaks. Kinda’ like at Christmas waiting for the tree to be
lit. The morning did not
disappoint. I nearly wasted the last of
the camera battery on the glowing Yes! Peak (aka
Glacier Peak).
As packed the goats returned. They were seeking precious salt and minerals.
To the rocks for them…
My mind
was playing the “Jaws” music
They
patiently waited, hoping we’d have to pee…
The first step onto snow I sank to my knee
(6:30a). It’d only dropped to 52F last
night. Bummer to get
snow up the pants and down the (still wet) boots. Though nice for plunge
stepping down to Cub Lake basin.
In the basin the temps cooled, glad we stayed on the warm ridge with the
views. Passed the skiers with a good
morning and headed north. The basin was
like a rough sea. Ridges like large
waves and sun cups like smaller ones. I
was reminded of the feel of windsurfing out into the ocean off the Oregon
coast. The rattle of the small waves and
the roll going over the large waiting to see what was in the depths.
At Cub lake, (.9m, c5365) 6:57a Carla spotted a
piece of melted out trail 40-50’ above the lake pulling us into the trees. Still snow in places made for “interesting”
transitions. The hill up to the pass had
melted out quite a bit. Not sure it made
it any easier due to lack of traction and by the top the snow was getting
harder. Maybe should have donned
crampons.
Last
view of Cub Lake (sun this time)
After the 500’+ ascent to the saddle we found my
stashed pro and had a little break to say bye to the area (1.2m, c5884’,
7:42). Unlike our way in there were
views this time. A direct (ish) line to the ridge above the avy cleared slope (1.6m,
c5433’, 8:03a) going a little further north for a less steep start.
The ridge north of Cub Lake Saddle. The col is the low point mid frame.
Here there were short trees and a lot of weaving in
and out. It proved better hanging left
and moving to the south side of the slope for the more dirt barren goat paths
and log walks down to the flats. Looking
up high in a tree I noticed a blue web sling (1.8m, c4960’, 8:20a). What? Weird for flagging and why?
What’s the story?
The Avy
field and upper Bachelor Creek (route is left and into the woods at the flat
The
area was melting out significantly since we came in
Trail, what trail
As we worked left we saw traces of the old trail
under years of swept down logs and debris.
Hanging further skiers left into the woods bypassed much of the large
log blowdown and below that found the good tread of
the trail. Lost again at the swampy
flatter area we crossed over snow and the trail here and there. Amazing how much melt out
since we walked in. Past the bear
scat and found the wide open area with the great log crossing to the north
woods (2.6m, c4567’, 8:54p, 2h23m from camp).
Scat
Easy walking back through the north woods, except
for one point breaking through a thin snow bridge to be standing calf deep in
icy water.
---camera battery finally died. Must have been the
scat ---
A little trickier remembering
how to get to the south log crossing and trail. Went too early to see what a mess the slide
alder would be. Back tracked, went
further west in the north woods then found our route we took in. Whew! Break time at the trail (3.2m, c4120’,
9:30a, 3hrs from camp). That was the
best half hour pls part of the hike out. Now for the 2 ½ mile
downhill trip to Downey creek.
Normally I’d think I’d go fast, but we were soon to find the log
crawling and mud slipping and stopping to look for the lost trail would add
drama to the trip. The tread is great,
just a game keeping on it.
I’ll spare the language I heard heading down. The
last quarter mile was great and sitting next to the creek at Six Mile Shelter
was a nice welcome break (5.6m, c2550’, 11:00a, 4h30m from camp).
Down the Downey
Not much to report the trail out. Same as the way in with
mostly dry brush. The open areas
still had dew drenched brush, but the increasing heat of the day dried us off
quick enough (except the boots). The
Puncheons had traction so no wild acrobatics shown. Past Camp Boot, past Camp Spike, over the
slippery log crosses, 27 puncheons, great new WTA trail work as the trail
side-hilled southward. Sunlight streaming through the tall trees highlighting the young
ones. Giant old masters looming,
moss carpeting. Patches
of sunlight harboring cities of swarming no-see-ums. This is a stunningly beautiful area to hike.
The terrain flattened then the trail started down
the last third a mile or so to Downey Creek CG (11.8m, c1550’, 2:20p, 7h50m
from Itswoot camp). I checked the trail
reg and no new sign ins.
The wheels on the bike go round and round
We recovered the bikes, inflated the flat tire,
fixed the shifting problem, loaded the trailer and baked in the hot sun
(84F). It felt more like being on the
eastside. Riding out a
last look around. Giant trees and
quiet, I can still remember many years ago in the winter hauling my kayak down
the bank to the river while it was snowing.
That’s a whole other story.
At the Downey Creek bridge
we surprised a lone hiker. Then surprised myself peddling non-stop up the hill dragging the
trailer. Wind in the face the
miles sped by. Carla had a good comment
that trips like this should end with a nice downhill bike ride. Well, next time I’ll bring bike shorts… We passed a couple playing with their electronic
devices on the Buck Creek Bridge.
Shortly after Huckleberry trail another hiker heading out. Riding up to the gate after the short 8.5m
ride (c930’, 3:50p, 55min from Downey Ck) the most
amazing thing was the number of cars parked on the road –over 14! I’d not guessed how popular the Suiattle was.
Knuckles and smiles from a great
trip. Odd though lately getting out to the trailhead so early and in the
daylight. I like it.
Thanks to all for the great beta and Carla for sharing
in the adventure. I’ll be back to the
Ptarmigan, but will try avoiding the “joys” of the Bachelor Creek trail
approach. A beautiful
area and true “backcountry”. So hard to find areas that aren’t a short day jaunt from a highway
or trailhead.
I can’t believe you read all this. Now go rest your eyes, or get outside. There’s good hiking to be had.
Thanks for reading and Happy Trails!
fwb
Stats:
To the Downey CG:
1h30m, 8.5m, 740ascent
Day 1: 10:45m,
12.0m, 5816 ascent
Day 2: 13h4m, 8.7m,
5471 ascent
Day 3: 8h49m, 20.3m, 940 ascent
Totals: 34h8m, 49.5m, 12967ascent all in a 67h30m
window
By foot 32.5m, 12107, 31:42
By bike 17.0m, 860,
2:26
Gear:
Double slings, 50m
rope -for glacier travel and belay/handline to Dome
summit, glacier travel gear. ice ax, crampons…
Downey
Creek to Six Mile Shelter
Six
Mile Shelter to Itswoot Ridge
Itswoot
Ridge to Sinister
Sinister Reg:
Dome register:
Copyright 2011, all
rights reserved