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Plan ‘B’, Bonanza Peak
9511’
-Fresh snow in summer,
via Holden Pass
via Holden Pass and Mary
Green Glacier
July 1-2, 2011
Franklin Bradshaw (solo)
Weather
– Sun and hot, winds near calm.
Notes:
Bonanza holds several titles, county high point, highest non-volcanic WA peak, #6 on the Bulgers list, the best
view in the house…
What led to “Plan “B”
Much planning from several
groups preparing for a long weekend. Most people had three days off and I figured
how to wrangle an extra making four days.
As typical for this new “summer” season, the weather report was like
holding a slippery fish. The clear and sun slipping through the fingers. After the “wet one” with Stefan and crew to Silverhorn I decided I needed to be flexible, listen to my
doubts and not get the pressure to be too fixed on one location while this
weather pattern persists.
I’ve been pine-ing (what
is the spelling for that anyway?) for a trip into the southern Ptarmigan
traverse area. Four days would be
perfect. N others interested. This was looking to be a filled weekend by
everyone. The north end forecast slipped
into a wet Sunday. Even the dry side
looked to have a questionable day on Sunday.
Bummer, right in the middle of the weekend. A few days before the weekend the forecast north was 50% and rising
wet for Sunday. And the Ptarmigan looked to get a taste of that
too. Time for Plan
“B”. Head to the dry side and
explore more of the Holden area. No
takers, so looked to be a solo trip.
Some concern expressed and listened to from Dicey. Going at my own pace I felt I’d turn around
if I felt an issue. And I had plenty of
time to do something else in there if wanting.
An early morning –cars, boats and buses… oh my
An early exit from the westside, morning colors and a peaceful drive for a Friday. Nice to trade the rush hour commute for a
scenic trip over the pass. Stevens Pass
still had a surprising amount of snow for this late in the year. I love driving Hwy2 in the early morning,
Tumwater Canyon about as scenic as any I’ve ever been. The day was getting warm as I pulled into
Fields Point with an hour to relax before the Lady II would show.
Loading the Lady II at Fields Point
A drop off part way for shore trail hikers and two happy to be out dogs
Over 25 people waiting to get tickets, I expected
more for this weekend. The upper cabin
was quiet this trip and ventures to the deck warm. I hardly recognized Lucerne when we arrived
with the water level being high and the “lower” floating dock the height of the
main dock. Water up to
the logs and a few people wandering about. The usual, load school bus, cram knees, go
zombie the dusty slow ride 12 miles in.
This time no Zombie, a good conversation with a father who was on a month long trek with
his boys to hike and see the area.
Little did they know of the low snow level and its limiting their
prospects for hikes.
Arriving at Holden, it appeared the entire population was out on the
grass waving and cheering as we arrived.
You’d wonder if a superstar was on board or the home team
returning. I think it’s the home team
returning feel.
Check in here –the Hike Haus
Head west young man
Checked in at the Hike Haus, on the over-night check
out the only non Domke or Hart lake group was a party
of two that had given Copper a go. A refill of water and I was off with an
over-burdened pack (1:20p, c3200’). Could be the tent, rope, stove, extra fuel… or maybe the big bag of
fresh fruit, or the semi-plastic boots strapped to the back. My Gore-Tex scramble boots get wet in the
snow and I wanted dry feet.
Busy times at Holden
Better known as “Garbo”
The road heading west was flat dry and dusty. The day had become true eastside summer. With plenty of time I stopped for each
historical plaque. Bridge on left and
mention of the “hollow mountain”, Old rock retaining walls, a deer eating with
not much care for a human so near and history of the Winston community.
That way for future reference… (Option “C”)
Who you lookin’ at? Huh? Never seen a gal eat?
All that’s left of Winston
Only thing left of the community are rock/concrete
features and utility pipes. A little
over a half mile passing the camp ground after the rangers house. Road changed to trail, wide smooth and fresh
trail work. Some people ahead, red hard
hats and tools. My God! Had I really
just left Whoville as I’d read in Eric’s Base Camp
(.com)? Nope, coming closer it was a
line of friendly WTA volunteers returning from doing fabulous work on the
Holden Lake trail. Asked what they’d
been up to and one replied, “you’ll see”. I assumed with this group that was a good
thing. Time to turn
off the wide superhighway of a trail at 1.4m (c3415’), still a wide easy trail
by the standards of what I’ve been on.
A pair of old wooden handle loppers in the trail, the tread started to
rise then left the warm shade of the trees for the hot sun. Sweat dripping with too much weight… hey, this
feels just like summer!
A goodbye to WTA volies –they did good. Thanks guys!
Meet Fred
An hour into my sweat fest (2.2m, c3995’) more
voices. Ahead three
working on the trail. From afar
it appeared they were doing bonsai with the side trail brush. Fred the older of
the group struck up a conversation. They
were of the Holden trail crew and working on “woody” things today. They were definitely on “Holden” time. And I found it difficult to leave the
conversation, but I had plans for the day.
Plans to see the top of Martin if it was in the cards.
Copper left and Dumbell right (far left is Buckskin)
Not open yet
Many switchbacks in the hot sun and low lying scrub
trees. Approaching the larger trees deer
walked ahead of me. Each good shaded
spot I took full advantage to stop, sit on the pack and cool off with a
drink. Most of the elevation had been
gained so the walk was more level and in tall trees. Opening to a large avy swath the first views
of Bonanza… gulp… (3.4m, c4900’, 2h40m). I’d met Paul in Holden, just finishing a
traverse from Phelps Creek past Lyman Lakes.
He mentioned new snow. Above on
the rocks of Bonanza that new snow was quite apparent. A little spice with your
rock meal? Nice the trail had
been cleared and re-worked through the piles of logs from the slide. Back in
the trees the snow began at 5000’ (3.6m).
Time to change to boots.
Holden Lake
Another half hour of trail gone the trees opened to
Holden lake (4.3m, c5250’, 2050ascent, 2h40m). Surrounded by snow and still floating snow bergs. A great view up to Holden
Pass, but Bonanza hiding behind a looming ridge. The snow was thin in places making for slow
going, sun cups, hollow spots near logs and rocks and thin covering over a
swampy area. East side of a large
boulder field I found a dry spot and finally a tree I perfect for hanging a
stash. I didn’t need all the apples,
tent, extra food… Also a good food break watching the marmots amongst the boulders.
Fresh snow… first good shot of east face above Mary Green Glacier
Martin from Holden Lake
Matt’s awesome ridge camp or bust
The boulder field was a series of rock hopping and
trying to avoid soft gaps near hidden rocks.
Feeling relief from the boulders now was finding the way through creeks
and wet areas, transition to dodging scrub alder, some openness and trying to
stay away from the alder. Seemed simple enough, except the route was actually thin snow over
creeks. The typical alder fun and
about 100’ below the pass an open spot near a boulder to fill with water.
Route to Holden Pass
A look back down to Holden Lake from near the pass
I made the
pass on snow and took in the sights.
Looked easy enough to head west on the pass ridge to gain the snowfield
below the Mary Green glacier. Looking
north snow petering out to a summer look lower. South the snow surrounded Holden lake with a backdrop of Dumbell,
Copper, Fernow… And east a steep snow
slope going up, I forgot. It was to be
400’ up. I’d already been up 3160’ in 5.4 miles. Did I want to go up more? If nothing else I needed to see what Matt was
talking about. He does find and like
some great places for the views. Soft
for kick stepping up and the ridge flattens.
Totally snow covered with small islands of large larch trees. Under one, I found a dry spot a little
flattish and enough for me to squeeze in a bivy (5.7m, c6792’, 3592 ascent,
5h17min, 6:37p). Whew!
Camp under tree just left of center
Only 7:00, what to do? I relaxed in the sun, then restless took the
summit pack and ventured east. Down the ridge crossing very
fresh wolverine tracks.
Fresh tracks
Up stopping to look for routes up the SW side of the
mountain and then down to the saddle west of Martin Peak. I worked up snow gulleys on the SW flank to a
flat spot of the west ridge. Then more traversing rock, heather and snow. Gaining elevation and stopping to visualize
the route. I had in my mind the guide
books saying to gain the gulleys on the south side to get to the summit. I saw far east a
series of large gulleys with snow. Somehow I had them in my mind as the way
up. Nothing else seemed viable. Time was ticking and the sun getting low. An impasse to traverse without dropping, I
decide up was the way. On the contrary,
going up to get to a summit is not always the best bet. Onto some dicey cl4 rock,
gained the ridge (c7800’). To crawl over a gendarme and down to loose
rock, across snow… and
now what? Above a maze
looking like an inverted cave of stalagmites. My focus ahead at those
snow filled gulleys. I ventured up, didn’t
like it, then back down a hundred feet.
I totally missed the obvious tread that led up and a fallen cairn.
Oops! Another hundred feet or so
of traversing and I was stopped by an immense south face of cl4 to mid cl5
loose rock wall. The sun was getting
ready to set and there was no way I wanted to be on that in the dark. Maybe better to come back in the day and try
from more east to get to those gulleys.
Route up the ridge of Martin
Copper
Get ridge right of these (east)
Good scrambling
A need to break the spell and look near as well as far
How blind we are when fixated on a spot. There I stood on the true ridge route going
up and all I saw was a route far away.
Sometimes good to break the spell and just look down. Snow was starting to glow orange and the day
was done.
Time to turn around…
I drank up
and turned to return to camp. The return
went fast and by 9:30 I was brewing water for dinner and a warm drink. A bare wisp of a breeze in
the warm eve. No rush to get in
the bag, but morning would come soon enough.
Good night Copper
Good night sun
A good bivy. Not kept up from cold or great location. More the voices in the
head. Carla saying
, I wish you wouldn’t do it solo.
Fresh wolverine tracks 100’ from camp and the stories of how fierce and
ruthless they can be. The
image of the imposing east wall of Bonanza above Mary Green glacier. Being here solo for what is a serious
trip. This was going to be way tougher
than a steep rock scramble… I finally
drifted off again surrounded by dark skies, glowing snow and the Milkyway
keeping me company. A scene I’ve never
come to take for granted.
Morning lit the skies slowly. Stove burning, but barely. Lately something has been wrong with it. No big deal, I could survive on the monster
pile of food I brought without hot water.
But this morning I was blessed with a double dose of oatmeal and hot
cocoa
Good morning Bonanza
Hello Mary, nothing to do with Hello Kitty
I loaded everything into the big pack and plunge
stepped the 400’ west to the pass. Re-arrangement, then again.
I left the summit pack favoring the large pack for carrying rope, stove,
pro, picket, clothes… Still the pack
felt pretty empty compared to those I’d see others wearing in the next few days
as “day” packs.
East Face route morning view
View from the day before
Left Holden Pass (6:20a, c6360’), west up the ridge
to a short wall using a tree for assistance.
Weird gaps of rock and brush would be better with more melt. Above on this bench a rising to the right to
a traverse toward the narrowest gap of rock to the upper snow. Stretching south from that point smooth granite
with a snow rim above, looking to be breaking as the sun heated and snow fed
downward. A break to
sit in the new morning sun on a dry boulder in the sea of snow to don crampons. Much easier traversing and
no worries of a slip. At the
granite wall, a move left down onto the rock (.5m, c6960, 30min). Filled the water bottles (last chance), then crampons scratching rock, back on snow.
The upper face
I stayed far right with a buttress wall on the north
and working around slight indentations of crevasses yet to thaw open up the flattening
on the top of the glacier (1.1m, c8000’, 2h10m). From here a long level
traverse south. Snow getting
softer, the morning not scratching the surface to now sinking
a couple inches. The
sights impressive. I stopped for
much shutter delay and to just admire the growing day. Lake far below, only the
sound of the many waterfalls, Martin to the east, Copper and her sisters SE,
close up the undulating curvature of the glacier so sensuous and the upheaval
of seracs and blocks reminding of the nature of the
glacier under my feet. I was thinking in the present. Taking my mind off the
climb route soon to come. 45
minutes into the traverse I was at the base of the snow fan extending down from
only “easy” route up the east face (1.4m, c8260’, 3h, 9:17a).
The snow fan coming into sight (far right)
More sensual curves and shadows –uh, la, la
Looking up the “fan”
From the fan looking back the route up the Mary Green Glacier
Take the left gulley
Another stop.
Load pockets, drink water. So far easy enough… ready, okay… here goes. Some zigging as the snow was getting even
softer in the beating of the hot morning sun.
Hit the lower Bergschrund at c8650’ running to its north (right). Probing thin bridge over it, working more north, thin, more north.
Running out of snow, now ten feet above a drop over a
rock cliff. On the far north end
about 20’ of clearance with no runout.
Careful ax belaying and was moving straight up hill
kickstepping. Below the shrund the pitch
was 30 – 35 degrees. Now above the pitch
increased, 45, now 50. I worked to rocks
on the left above another moat/shrund.
Now crampons hitting rock under the thinning snow. Ax in with the right arm, left digging
in. Below the rock
finding a buried sling. Might
come in handy so I cleared it out, hoping the sun would clear it.
Thin snow with open pockets under –take care
I’d been taking altimeter reading to guess how far a
rap would get me. First sling to the
upper moat was about right for a 50m rope.
Cl3 and cl4 rock up this left rib was solid with another sling a little
higher than I felt for my 50m rope. I’d
make do. Top of this rib the snow to
move left was too steep and thin for a safe move the 15-20’ to the next rib on
the left. I transitioned back to snow. Hoping easier than the
crampon on rock action. Snow soft, sinking to the knees. At times crampons hooking buried rock. Pitch steep (50°+) using my
spare arm as a second tool buried deep.
Transition to cl4 rock rib on the right and slowly
scratching my way up. Many stops
to look for a better route and express, “holy s…”. I understand Carla’s concerns. Wiping that from my mind I re-focused. It was still good. I could safely rap from everything so
far. And I could see slings on the left
rib and the right (one I was on) spaced perfectly for a 50m rope.
Closeup of the upper face and rap stations
Working up and left, crossing under the direct
gulley (the goes nowhere according to PaulK gulley)
holds ceased and the angle went drastically steep. More left now above the snow field a spot big
enough to sit and eat. And a narrow
ledge running south around this buttress (1.6m, c9185’, 5hrs, 11:20a). Stunning views… and down a bit of
vertigo. Hmmm, I did a self belay across
the ledge to a snow field that reached the ridge. Not easy, the rope snagged on every gap and
grabby protrusion, Aaarrgghhh. The snow was too steep to cross left (south)
to the left of this upper gulley. Shallow with smooth granite melting out the snow in the hot sun. I no longer felt safe on snow. Right side of this gulley had some good cl3-4
rock all the way to the ridge (an old sling 15’ below the ridge).
From just below the ridge
The last rock to crawl over on the ridge –summit above and right
Now what?
Stay away from the snow on the ridge.
Sun was heating it up. Traversing
south, spots were too soft and thin near covered boulders. A dip down and double arm tooling it over to
a vertical black flakey rock feature.
Good grips and easy cl3 pull over.
Exposed looking to the right… down thousands of feet
to the Company glacier. Another great safe spot to take in the route. Simple enough. Ten feet below me a rap sling on the top of
this rib with an easy gulley access on the south of it leading direct up snow
to a giant slung horn, a boulder sticking from the snow above it and… and… 30’
or less vertical to the summit.
Last pitch to the summit
It’s not done yet.
Carefull over to the horn I used the sling to
self belay myself up the soft snow. Now waist deep and less than a crawl to get past the upper boulder. Going into full four legged
Honey Badger mode, digging my way up like in honey. Away from the boulder
better snow. Pooking
my head up and I was looking down. Down the SW side of the mountain. Everything around me was down. Nothing up. All down.
How high do you need to go to feel the spiritual of a peak
I pulled over and on the right a short spire of dry
rock. I anchored, dug in the feet,
struck the ax into the peak and gave a deep exhale as my mind was cheering in
relief. The way down
way in the background. That would come soon enough. I think the way up was a little more than it
could have been without the snow. I was relieved, but still on guard. Accidents happen when you forget the
situation you are in (1.7m, 9511’, 3110ascent, 5h30min, 12:50p)
No place to sit and no cairn to give a hint where
the reg could be. I shoveled for 25
minutes digging a large flat, then down to rock. I felt like I was in a fort on the top of a
mountain. His would be an awesome
bivy. Highest
non-volcanic peak in Washington, top of the world, sun, almost no wind. My pulse had leveled and I sat to eat and
just take it all in. No nap time with
the heating of the day, but plenty of time to enjoy the experience. Great as it was, I do enjoying sharing the
spiritual of the summit with close friends.
Looking down at the Mary Green Glacier and Holden Lake
Holden and tailings
Final tracks to summit on ridge
click and drag interactive 360 Bonanza Summit panorama
NW Bonanza Peak (8599’ p280’) on left and Dark down the ridge right
Looking south over the Isella Glacier
The other Bonanza Summits (looking west)
A little venturing on the summit, as much as my rope
tether allowed. Of all the routes up
this looked like the easiest. To the
west Done, Sinister, Gunsight looked like one blob. Agnes inviting, Northerly Dark looked very
un-assuming. Interesting, years ago
reading it seemed like Dark was more a challenge. I think many other peaks more challenging,
just Dark less done or heard about.
Clockwise a ridge to yet explore, Tupshin, Wy’north,
Black tusk… Then the memories of the
great ski trip a few months ago with a sweet turns from the summit of Flora and
back to Holden over Tenmile pass. Holden tailings orange in
the valley trees. The Entiats and skiing last week off
Emerald with Carla in perfect spring corn. Copper calling, memories of
Fernow, Maude, Carne High traverse, the most awesome 4th of July
trip to Buck area a few years ago… Clark
and Luana fully white, Lyman lake
a white plateau. Was it just a short
while ago I did a few circles in the dark night heading in to catch up with
Carla and Paul? And
Glacier, an awesome wilderness high point and striking as where friends spent a
magic camp on the summit getting engaged. It was like home looking at all the distinct
memories and at other un-explored peaks patiently waiting.
Southeast
Eastward
And a closer view near my feet
Oh and the summit at arms length shot
Rap, Rap, Rap… not the music type
2:00, relaxing on the summit. Would be nice lingering, but I don’t want any
surprises going down. Hah! Famous last words.
Self belay down to the horn and rap to the gulley south of the sling
area on the rib south of the main upper gulley (2:16p).
Looking up from bottom of rap #1
Inspection and testing, slings and anchor okay, rap
22m to next sling (2:40p). Rope jambs. Up-climb and rodeo to release. Rope clear and recovered.
Another sling directly below, but a cliff below that. Snow on rocks precluding
traversing north from there.
Okay, retrace… a rap/protected traverse back to the ledge over rotted
snow. Very glad to have a rope, the sun
baked this stuff. North side of upper gulley set a red sling to protect the
ledge. Rodeo trick doesn’t release the
sling so it’s now part of the route.
Hope I have enough for the rest of the route. Set another red sling to rap from the ledge
to the climbers left rib (came up the right one) over rotted snow (3:16). A rap on the far side looks the right
height. I check it out with my mini
monocular –cut webs and bad. Stay
here. Down climb easy cl3 to cl4,
steepening rock and a traverse across a short ugly snow spot to the last
rib. Another rap (c9012’, 4:00p) and
more down climbing due to the rope being too short to reach the last sling, a
bit spicy here and there, but much easier sans crampons. Cool, plenty of webbing and as I inspect I notice
a bolted anchor (c8945’). This is the
last pitch off the rock and I hope enough to get me over the upper moat. Thrown rope looks like it’ll be close.
The last rap station
I get ready making sure all is set for the
transition back to snow. Uh, oh… Where’s
my ax. Of with the pack, look around…
dang I left it up there. What was I
saying earlier about “famous last words”?
I unhooked from the rope, anchored the pack and started scrambling
up. Amazing how fast and easy compared
to the morning before the snow melted and trying to negotiate with
crampons. Luckily, the ax was at the
base of the previous rap, Wheh! Just as spicy getting back to the last rap
station, now double and triple check.
Contact, rap on and squish sink, squish waist deep in snow.
The upper moat and thin snow area
Rope reaches the moat and a knot change and stretch
gets me under it. Rope stashed, another
snack and some downclimb to get past the exposed northside
bypass of the main bergschrund (c8656’, 4:45p, 2h45m from summit).
I’m feeling a weight lifted as I traverse, an
exhilaration with the first high speed glissade. Popping up wet but and smiles to start the
posthole traverse following my tracks out.
The day still hot though in the shade of the towering
peak beside me. Past the snowfall
debris another break to refresh and much shutter delay. I hardly glimpse behind, would I turn to
stone?
The tread is soft and mushy. I take no shortcuts. In my mind I can hear Bill’s voice, “we don’t
have time for a shortcut”. I smile, this
time it’s play safe, snow is soft, take the known
route. More glissades and a spring at
each end. A boulder had glissaded during
the day. A reminder of
potential falling rock. More
zigging and collected fresh water at the waterfall (c7616’, 5:24p, 3h24m from
summit).I had water from filling the bottle all day with snow. Now though nice to down extra gulps knowing
I’d not drunk enough during the busy day.
View of Martin from the high glacier traverse
Shadows growing
Rock chasing glissade
The long northside
traverse was slippery sans crampons. Soon enough a vegie assisted drop to the
pass ridge and back to my awaiting night gear (c6490’, 5:30p, 3h30min from
summit). It’d taken much longer than I
expected up and down. This was a serious
endeavor and I felt good that I took it one step at a time and taking the time
to stop and re-appraise often. I was
fully ready to turn around at anytime. Would be so much easier with some snow melt. I’m not the biggest fan of rock scrambling
with crampons or sloppy snow.
Marmots, mosquitos and campers,
oh my
Un eventful the trip down, water at the watering boulder, glissades
down the snow. It settled so I exited to better stuff below. So far a quiet day. Not a soul around. Tired, but high spirit deep inside I careful skipped over the swamp and boulders in the
direction of my stash (c5310, 6:28p, 4h28 from summit, 12h13min from the
morning start).
The new camp welcome crew
Rounding the corner I was surprised to see campers
setup under my hanging bag. Nice people,
Andrea and three others. Three of the
four would give Bonanza a try in the morning.
Now to find a dry tentsite. The mosquitos did not invite a bivy
tonight. The other group and I visited
with chat about the route and there plans to do it in the morning. I provided feedback that I could and that it
was tougher than I expected. My gear
spread out to dry, hoody tight over as mosquito protection I took time relaxing
on with the view of the east face. Holy
S…, I did that solo? It would sink in…
Phase two, second time is NOT a charm
Well, that will be the start of part two, Martin Redux.
I expected Bonanza to be a bear. Never really know till you are there doing
it. I figured it’d be slower, but had
hoped better snow conditions. In
retrospect this would be a faster and easier scramble once the snow melts more
exposing more rock. But
not to late with the bergschrund opening. Pluses and minuses. Not a fuzzy warm trip, though very
rewarding. I’m looking forward to some
more “low angle” snow trips. Wonder if
there’s more good skiing to be had?
For tonight, one tired Honey Badger…
Next morning view of Bonanza
That’s all for now folks…
Happy Trails!
fwb
Stats:
Approach: 5:17, 7.7m, 3592ascent
Martin
attempt: 2:50,
2.0m, 1787ascent
Bonanza
Ascent: 5:40,
1.7m, 3111ascent
Descent: 3:32, 1.5
Move
camp:
0:56, 0.6m, 150ascent
Totals: 11:18, 3.9m, 3260 vert (includes 1:10 summit break)
Copyright 2011, all
rights reserved